Friday, February 3, 2012
Massage Class: Day 5
We did it, we survived the first week of Thai Massage Classes, but just barely. There was concern if we would make it through the day and still have enough energy to type this report. The massage school is located near a hospital. Now it makes sense. We should have just rented a room at the hospital instead of biking across town. We've been pulled, twisted and bent in ways we never thought possible. Next time we get the idea to try something like this we'll save a lot of money by rubbing ourselves down with meat tenderizer and jumping in the lion's den at the Little Rock zoo.
Thursday, February 2, 2012
How much for the mango?
In preparation for our trip we were anticipating things to be relatively inexpensive and with an exchange rate of 30 Baht to the dollar, we were ready to do some shopping. We learned quickly that not only are the prices about the same as in the US, but the way things are marked can easily result in overspending.
For example: A regular pair of shorts that we were interested in buying was marked at 500 Baht. Five hundred anything sounds exorbitant until we do some fast calculating and find out its the equivalent of about $16, which is compatible with discount store pricing back home. However, certain amounts can be very deceptive. A small bag of cashews we saw were marked at 180 Baht. At first glance it translates to $1.80 which would be fine for the small bag of nuts, and as such we have frequently made such a purchase. But the price was not one dollar and eighty cents, it was one hundred and eighty Baht which actually equals $6, way too expensive for such a small snack. Similarly, we priced a box of cereal at $7, roughly twice the cost of the same box back home.
Many items we looked at purchasing cost almost the same as we would pay in the states. Sunscreen, toiletries, clothing and most gifts came at no savings at all. But there are two areas where there is quite a reduction in cost - food and housing - which can be two of the most expensive necessities. A full meal including drink can be purchased here for the equivalent of only a dollar or so. The exception would be big chains like McDonalds, KFC and Subway (all available here) where the pricing is practically identical to prices at home. Fresh fruits and vegetables can be purchased at open markets, which are plentiful around town, for a fraction of the price we are accustomed to paying.
As for housing, the Guest House where we are staying is first class in terms of comfort and amenities, and wrapped in a beautiful tropical setting. Looking online we found an equivalent guest house in Florida starting at $200 a night. We are paying $20 a night.
The conclusion: Leave your cereal at home, this is a heck of a great value for a vacation.
For example: A regular pair of shorts that we were interested in buying was marked at 500 Baht. Five hundred anything sounds exorbitant until we do some fast calculating and find out its the equivalent of about $16, which is compatible with discount store pricing back home. However, certain amounts can be very deceptive. A small bag of cashews we saw were marked at 180 Baht. At first glance it translates to $1.80 which would be fine for the small bag of nuts, and as such we have frequently made such a purchase. But the price was not one dollar and eighty cents, it was one hundred and eighty Baht which actually equals $6, way too expensive for such a small snack. Similarly, we priced a box of cereal at $7, roughly twice the cost of the same box back home.
Many items we looked at purchasing cost almost the same as we would pay in the states. Sunscreen, toiletries, clothing and most gifts came at no savings at all. But there are two areas where there is quite a reduction in cost - food and housing - which can be two of the most expensive necessities. A full meal including drink can be purchased here for the equivalent of only a dollar or so. The exception would be big chains like McDonalds, KFC and Subway (all available here) where the pricing is practically identical to prices at home. Fresh fruits and vegetables can be purchased at open markets, which are plentiful around town, for a fraction of the price we are accustomed to paying.
As for housing, the Guest House where we are staying is first class in terms of comfort and amenities, and wrapped in a beautiful tropical setting. Looking online we found an equivalent guest house in Florida starting at $200 a night. We are paying $20 a night.
The conclusion: Leave your cereal at home, this is a heck of a great value for a vacation.
Massage Class: Day 4
We are convinced our massage teacher is trying to kill us. The days are getting progressively harder and not just in learning the techniques but also in pain and suffering. We never thought to ask if the price of admission included a life insurance policy. Our teacher Mos took over the school from his brother Mac, who reportedly moved to Italy. We are now questioning if Mac is 'on the lam'. Mos is married to a lady from France and they are planning to close the school in May and move to Paris. I think we arrived four months too early. I wonder how to say "Run while you still can!" in French?
Wednesday, February 1, 2012
Fresh fresh fresh
On just about every block around our guest house are any number of vendors of fresh fruit and other (often unidentifiable) food items. Rose apples, also called Jambu or Chom poo, are in season and readily available, as is watermelon, cantaloupe, papaya, coconut, pineapple, dragon fruit, mangosteen, the Thai orange, durian, pomelo, strawberry, mango and banana. It has been a delight to snack on fresh fruits as an alternative to drive-through and processed foods so ubiquitous in the US. Fortunately for us, there is a star fruit tree near our Thai massage school. The tree is loaded and every day there are newly ripened star fruit beckoning us to partake. They have been a delicious addition to our fruit consumption.
The majority of our meals (with the exception of one visit each to KFC and McDonalds) have all been loaded with an abundance of fresh vegetables. Even the one time we had pizza it had a vegetable topping combination which included fresh pineapple and whole kernel corn. What in the world? Corn on a pizza. Who would have guessed. And it was delicious.
It has been very rare to find desert items listed on any menu (that we can read, of course) so we've supplemented our meals with fresh fruit smoothies. Smoothie vendors also have a prominent presence in the city. Passion fruit and mango smoothies have become our favorites.
There is an elementary school close to where we are studying, and each afternoon as school is letting out we have noticed a vendor set up directly across from the school. His product of choice happens to be bags of freshly cooked 'fren frie potato', complete with ketchup and a skewer stick. He is conveniently accessible to the hungry children (and visiting Americans 'jonesing' for a fry fix). A single bag is only ten baht, or about 33¢. It isn't a large quantity, but just enough for a quick snack. Yum!
Another interesting thing to note is how portable and moveable the street food vendors are. Available electric plugs are located at nearly every light pole along the street so the vendors just pull up and plug in. Many of their carts are actually 'side cars' on motorcycles. When the business day is through, they just ride their 'shops' home and restock for the next day. What a concept.
(Notice the lady is sitting on her motorcycle seat)
The majority of our meals (with the exception of one visit each to KFC and McDonalds) have all been loaded with an abundance of fresh vegetables. Even the one time we had pizza it had a vegetable topping combination which included fresh pineapple and whole kernel corn. What in the world? Corn on a pizza. Who would have guessed. And it was delicious.
It has been very rare to find desert items listed on any menu (that we can read, of course) so we've supplemented our meals with fresh fruit smoothies. Smoothie vendors also have a prominent presence in the city. Passion fruit and mango smoothies have become our favorites.
There is an elementary school close to where we are studying, and each afternoon as school is letting out we have noticed a vendor set up directly across from the school. His product of choice happens to be bags of freshly cooked 'fren frie potato', complete with ketchup and a skewer stick. He is conveniently accessible to the hungry children (and visiting Americans 'jonesing' for a fry fix). A single bag is only ten baht, or about 33¢. It isn't a large quantity, but just enough for a quick snack. Yum!
Another interesting thing to note is how portable and moveable the street food vendors are. Available electric plugs are located at nearly every light pole along the street so the vendors just pull up and plug in. Many of their carts are actually 'side cars' on motorcycles. When the business day is through, they just ride their 'shops' home and restock for the next day. What a concept.
(Notice the lady is sitting on her motorcycle seat)
Massage Class: Day 3
What have we gotten into? Is this really a form of massage? We need to look up the word 'massage' in the dictionary to make sure it doesn't refer to inquisition techniques. The best part of the day was lunch. We found a vegetarian restaurant near the school that we love. Everyday they have a different menu of new tasty dishes and noodle soups. We both can eat a good meal for a total of 50 Baht (less than $2).
Our trip back to the school usually entails stopping by one of a number of stands to get a fresh fruit smoothie. The Passion Fruit is particularly tasty. Then it's back to the studio where we once again are submitted to another 3 hours of Thai massage practice. The good thing about practicing on each other is that we don't have to really push, pull, crack and snap very hard, we just have to act like it.
Our trip back to the school usually entails stopping by one of a number of stands to get a fresh fruit smoothie. The Passion Fruit is particularly tasty. Then it's back to the studio where we once again are submitted to another 3 hours of Thai massage practice. The good thing about practicing on each other is that we don't have to really push, pull, crack and snap very hard, we just have to act like it.
Tuesday, January 31, 2012
Massage Class: Day 2
Our second day of class went relatively well. During the first hour Mos showed us a new group of postures and the rest of the day we practiced on each other. Classes only run from 9:00 to 4:00 with a one our lunch break. Six hours of class is certainly enough for one day. It's interesting to note how many of the new postures seem to resemble torture techniques. This is sure a different type of massage from the usual ones back home. At least we get to keep our clothes on. Still, several times we though how we would gladly trade an article or two of clothing for a little bit easier massage. Nevertheless, it is still engaging and we are learning a lot. We are taking copious notes and already making a list of people that we can't wait to try this out on - so beware, haha!
Monday, January 30, 2012
Massage Class: Day 1
We started our classes today at The Fine Art of Thai Massage. The school is located in a narrow 5 story building in the heart of the old city. Mos, our instructor, is a 30 yr. old Thai man who has been in and around Thai massage his entire life. He and his brother Mac learned early on from his parents who were also both Thai massage instructors. There are only four students in the class so there is a lot of personal attention. The two other students, Ainoa, a young lady from Spain, and Georges, a young man from Greece, are both in their third week and just practicing this week so Mos has more time to focus on us. Thai massage is not necessarily relaxing, and there are a lot of positions that use pressure points, bending, pushing, pulling and twisting, and they can be uncomfortable. After the first day we are still excited about the class but a little uncertain about all the positions to learn. It looks like it will be a lot of work but we are excited and ready for the challenge.
Sunday, January 29, 2012
Night Bazaar
The priority for our first full day in Chiang Mai was to find a place to stay. We left the Peppermint House, moved to the Prince Hotel for one night, then visited the Santitham Guest House. The Santitham was the place we were hoping for, and we were excited to get moved in as quickly as possible.
Our afternoon task was to locate the Thai Massage school. It was smack dab in the middle of the old city on Rachamanka Road, which is one of the primary streets in that area. Still having a little trouble with the language, we started giving things our own names and using mnemonics to help us remember important words and phrases. Rachamanka Road we fondly renamed Rachmaninoff. Hello in Thai is 'Sawadee Khrap', or our much easier Americanized version 'sweaty cup'. Useful to know here in this laid back culture is the phrase for 'never mind', 'Mai Pan Wri', or our simpler version, 'my pen writes'. We have finally learned Thai for 'Thank You' well enough to be understood but still foreign sounding enough to get a few laughs, although we fail to see what's so funny about our version, 'cop's coon crap'.
The evening turned out to be rather bizarre, a night bazaar in fact. Every Sunday night a portion of the old city streets are closed to vehicles and come alive with hundreds of food and merchandise vendors. The market is popular with both the tourists and the locals because of the good quality products and food sold at very low prices. The 'walking market' as it is also called, is promoted by the city as a way for locals to sell their handcrafted products, and as a way to showcase the area's culture, food and entertainment. We found the prices to be lower and the selection of goods larger than most of the other shopping areas we've seen, and the food was amazing, although much of it unrecognizable. Our recurring dialogue went something along the lines of "What in the World is that? We'll take two."
The walking market is hard to describe, and something that must be experienced. Huge masses of people visit the market, and they are often shoulder to shoulder - or stomach to back - and all trying to maneuver around each other. The best thing to relate it to is a weekend at Times Square, Burbon Street on Fat Tuesday, or when the doors open at WalMart on Black Friday. It is interesting to note that in spite of the mobs of people, everyone flows through the streets in an orderly and polite fashion. The people seem to follow similar patters when they drive. Watching the traffic here for the first time is almost terrifying, but after some experience we found that drivers are quite orderly and much more aware of what's going on around them than Americans driving at home while on their cell phones.
Most of the entertainment at the Walking Market is provided by underprivileged groups such as blind singers, crippled or elderly musicians, and also performances by local school kids and small children performing in traditional Thai costumes. We observed a demonstration by Thai monks, although we never did figure out what they were doing.
Our favorite part has to be the food. We had a plate of ten pieces of assorted sushi for about $3, real fruit smoothies for less than a $1 each, and bowls of noodles with 'mystery stuff' in them for less than 50¢. Not to mention lots of other things that we shouldn't mention because we wouldn't know how to mention them, such as the green squishy things with the white goopy stuff on top. The one thing we do know is that the prices are very low and the selection is enormous. We are already looking forward to returning next weekend.
Our afternoon task was to locate the Thai Massage school. It was smack dab in the middle of the old city on Rachamanka Road, which is one of the primary streets in that area. Still having a little trouble with the language, we started giving things our own names and using mnemonics to help us remember important words and phrases. Rachamanka Road we fondly renamed Rachmaninoff. Hello in Thai is 'Sawadee Khrap', or our much easier Americanized version 'sweaty cup'. Useful to know here in this laid back culture is the phrase for 'never mind', 'Mai Pan Wri', or our simpler version, 'my pen writes'. We have finally learned Thai for 'Thank You' well enough to be understood but still foreign sounding enough to get a few laughs, although we fail to see what's so funny about our version, 'cop's coon crap'.
The evening turned out to be rather bizarre, a night bazaar in fact. Every Sunday night a portion of the old city streets are closed to vehicles and come alive with hundreds of food and merchandise vendors. The market is popular with both the tourists and the locals because of the good quality products and food sold at very low prices. The 'walking market' as it is also called, is promoted by the city as a way for locals to sell their handcrafted products, and as a way to showcase the area's culture, food and entertainment. We found the prices to be lower and the selection of goods larger than most of the other shopping areas we've seen, and the food was amazing, although much of it unrecognizable. Our recurring dialogue went something along the lines of "What in the World is that? We'll take two."
The walking market is hard to describe, and something that must be experienced. Huge masses of people visit the market, and they are often shoulder to shoulder - or stomach to back - and all trying to maneuver around each other. The best thing to relate it to is a weekend at Times Square, Burbon Street on Fat Tuesday, or when the doors open at WalMart on Black Friday. It is interesting to note that in spite of the mobs of people, everyone flows through the streets in an orderly and polite fashion. The people seem to follow similar patters when they drive. Watching the traffic here for the first time is almost terrifying, but after some experience we found that drivers are quite orderly and much more aware of what's going on around them than Americans driving at home while on their cell phones.
Most of the entertainment at the Walking Market is provided by underprivileged groups such as blind singers, crippled or elderly musicians, and also performances by local school kids and small children performing in traditional Thai costumes. We observed a demonstration by Thai monks, although we never did figure out what they were doing.
Our favorite part has to be the food. We had a plate of ten pieces of assorted sushi for about $3, real fruit smoothies for less than a $1 each, and bowls of noodles with 'mystery stuff' in them for less than 50¢. Not to mention lots of other things that we shouldn't mention because we wouldn't know how to mention them, such as the green squishy things with the white goopy stuff on top. The one thing we do know is that the prices are very low and the selection is enormous. We are already looking forward to returning next weekend.
Friday, January 27, 2012
Hotel Hop
The Peppermint Guest House is in a prime location in the old city and close to all 'the action' (whatever that is), and for $14 a night we couldn't go wrong, right?
Our room was on the third floor of the narrow building and was about the size of a small bedroom with a tiny adjoining bathroom. The bathroom was a 'onesey' like our last hotel in Bangkok where the whole area was basically a shower with a sink and toilet in it. The room was so small we couldn't shower without rubbing against the toilet, which was a very unpleasant feeling, plus the entire room was wet afterwards. There is no good way to explain the room. There was only one very old lumpy bed with only a bottom fitted sheet and a thin comforter, and nothing in between. The pillows were about 6 inches high and felt like sandbags that wouldn't bend or form to the head. We figured they were probably acquired cheaply after all the recent flooding receded. There was a large window with very thin drapes that did a disastrous job of blocking out the city lights (which happened to be shining directly at our window) making it bright enough to read all through the night. The concrete floor was sticky, there was only one electric socket, and an army of ants had already staked their claim for most of the room. We slept in our clothes. Not surprisingly, the little bit we did sleep we both had bizarre dreams concerning things such as prison camps and tar babies. Needless to say we were checked out as soon as we could get our stuff together in the morning. Lesson learned: for $14 a night, you can't go right.
Having just cancelled our two weeks of respite at the Peppermint, we were officially homeless once again. Looking online earlier we had seen a hotel which fit our budget, and with a name like Prince Hotel we couldn't go wrong, right?
The room at the Prince was definitely an improvement, and was more than twice the size of the previous place. The bathroom was larger and with more of a western feel and had a real bathtub. The bedding was softer with bottom AND top sheets. The sandbag pillows were back but only about 3 inches high this time, so they were a little easier on the neck. However improved, it still didn't feel clean. The carpet felt dirty so we hated to remove our shoes, and the bathroom looked like it was host to a middle school biology project and in dire need of remodeling. A night or two was no problem but two weeks wasn't going to work. The Prince hotel turned out to be more of a Pauper place so we were back in the market for lodging.
Next on our list was the Santitham Guest House, located just outside the old city. We stumbled upon it by running searches on the Internet. It turned out to be by far the nicest and homiest place we've stayed in the entire trip. The guest house is actually a complex of small rooms and apartments in several buildings. The whole place is surrounded by a wall which separates it from the havoc and confusion of the surrounding city. The grounds are exquisite and covered with lush vegetation, flowers, trees and water features, and has many beautiful and serene areas for reflection and relaxation. It is an oasis to say the least, and is reminiscent of an upscale home in the Santa Barbara hills.
The other guests we've met so far are quite pleasant, and what is even more delightful is that everyone (for the most part) speaks English. Getting by on smiling and pointing is fine for a while, but some of that down home talk sho' is refreshin'. The owner, Noland, is a North Carolina native and has been quite cordial and available to help us get acquainted with the city. He even keeps bicycles on the premises at no charge for those bold and/or crazy enough to brave the streets. The rooms are comfortable, the beds and pillows are clean and soft, and the entire facility is impeccably clean. The room also includes a breakfast of fresh fruit, Greek yogurt, rolls and granola. For a weekly rate of only $23 a night, we finally found our home, and home sweet home it is!
Our room was on the third floor of the narrow building and was about the size of a small bedroom with a tiny adjoining bathroom. The bathroom was a 'onesey' like our last hotel in Bangkok where the whole area was basically a shower with a sink and toilet in it. The room was so small we couldn't shower without rubbing against the toilet, which was a very unpleasant feeling, plus the entire room was wet afterwards. There is no good way to explain the room. There was only one very old lumpy bed with only a bottom fitted sheet and a thin comforter, and nothing in between. The pillows were about 6 inches high and felt like sandbags that wouldn't bend or form to the head. We figured they were probably acquired cheaply after all the recent flooding receded. There was a large window with very thin drapes that did a disastrous job of blocking out the city lights (which happened to be shining directly at our window) making it bright enough to read all through the night. The concrete floor was sticky, there was only one electric socket, and an army of ants had already staked their claim for most of the room. We slept in our clothes. Not surprisingly, the little bit we did sleep we both had bizarre dreams concerning things such as prison camps and tar babies. Needless to say we were checked out as soon as we could get our stuff together in the morning. Lesson learned: for $14 a night, you can't go right.
Having just cancelled our two weeks of respite at the Peppermint, we were officially homeless once again. Looking online earlier we had seen a hotel which fit our budget, and with a name like Prince Hotel we couldn't go wrong, right?
The room at the Prince was definitely an improvement, and was more than twice the size of the previous place. The bathroom was larger and with more of a western feel and had a real bathtub. The bedding was softer with bottom AND top sheets. The sandbag pillows were back but only about 3 inches high this time, so they were a little easier on the neck. However improved, it still didn't feel clean. The carpet felt dirty so we hated to remove our shoes, and the bathroom looked like it was host to a middle school biology project and in dire need of remodeling. A night or two was no problem but two weeks wasn't going to work. The Prince hotel turned out to be more of a Pauper place so we were back in the market for lodging.
Next on our list was the Santitham Guest House, located just outside the old city. We stumbled upon it by running searches on the Internet. It turned out to be by far the nicest and homiest place we've stayed in the entire trip. The guest house is actually a complex of small rooms and apartments in several buildings. The whole place is surrounded by a wall which separates it from the havoc and confusion of the surrounding city. The grounds are exquisite and covered with lush vegetation, flowers, trees and water features, and has many beautiful and serene areas for reflection and relaxation. It is an oasis to say the least, and is reminiscent of an upscale home in the Santa Barbara hills.
The other guests we've met so far are quite pleasant, and what is even more delightful is that everyone (for the most part) speaks English. Getting by on smiling and pointing is fine for a while, but some of that down home talk sho' is refreshin'. The owner, Noland, is a North Carolina native and has been quite cordial and available to help us get acquainted with the city. He even keeps bicycles on the premises at no charge for those bold and/or crazy enough to brave the streets. The rooms are comfortable, the beds and pillows are clean and soft, and the entire facility is impeccably clean. The room also includes a breakfast of fresh fruit, Greek yogurt, rolls and granola. For a weekly rate of only $23 a night, we finally found our home, and home sweet home it is!
Thursday, January 26, 2012
My My Chiang Mai
Air was not our first choice in travel. We originally thought we would take a train from Phuket (in the South) to Chiang Mai (in the North) but a travel agent convinced us otherwise. The distance turned out to be 970 miles, but it looked so close on the map!
Air travel turned out to be similar to flying in the US. The airport was clean and modern, the flight was fast and easy and the price was reasonable for the distance covered. It was certainly a good bargain saving us two days of travel.
Chiang Mai’s rich history stretches back 700 years to the time of King Mengrai - the founder of the royal capital of the Lanna Kingdom (millions of rice fields). Chiang Mai means the “new city” and is located in Northern Thailand, about 720 km from Bangkok. Although "new" it has a small old city that is surrounded entirely by a moat. It also used to have a massive wall that surrounded it but most of the wall is now gone. The old city is a landmark packed full of shopping, temples and restaurants. Chiang Mai is blessed with magnificent mountains and a pristine landscape, covering an area of approximately 20,000 square km and is home to over 1.5 million people.
Although there is a large population here, it feels completely different than Bangkok. Describing Bangkok in terms of cooking it is like a pressure cooker. Chiang Mai is more like a campfire.
We arrived at the Chiang Mai airport and easily found a taxi to take us to our accommodations for the next two weeks. We had confirmed reservations to take classes at a local Thai Massage school, and it was refreshing knowing that we were not going to be moving again for the next two weeks.
Air travel turned out to be similar to flying in the US. The airport was clean and modern, the flight was fast and easy and the price was reasonable for the distance covered. It was certainly a good bargain saving us two days of travel.
Chiang Mai’s rich history stretches back 700 years to the time of King Mengrai - the founder of the royal capital of the Lanna Kingdom (millions of rice fields). Chiang Mai means the “new city” and is located in Northern Thailand, about 720 km from Bangkok. Although "new" it has a small old city that is surrounded entirely by a moat. It also used to have a massive wall that surrounded it but most of the wall is now gone. The old city is a landmark packed full of shopping, temples and restaurants. Chiang Mai is blessed with magnificent mountains and a pristine landscape, covering an area of approximately 20,000 square km and is home to over 1.5 million people.
Although there is a large population here, it feels completely different than Bangkok. Describing Bangkok in terms of cooking it is like a pressure cooker. Chiang Mai is more like a campfire.
We arrived at the Chiang Mai airport and easily found a taxi to take us to our accommodations for the next two weeks. We had confirmed reservations to take classes at a local Thai Massage school, and it was refreshing knowing that we were not going to be moving again for the next two weeks.
Wednesday, January 25, 2012
Foot Massage
Our last day in Phuket was quiet and relatively uneventful. Moving slowly as not to aggravate our sunburns, we were out of the hotel by noon. We planned to fly to our final destination of Chaing Mai from Phuket since it would have been a two day trip by train. Our ride to the airport wasn't scheduled to arrive till 5:00 pm, so we had a few hours left for last minute sightseeing.
We started the afternoon being a little adventurous and decided to try our luck at true local cuisine. We found a little place that had a long table paralleling the sidewalk with several large pots of unidentifiable items cooking inside them. The lady tending the table knew no English, but pointed at the pots as if we were supposed to figure out the contents by the number of wags her finger made over each pot. After giving us a good looking over, she pointed at two different pots and then pointed at each of us as if to say "You take this one and you take this one". We just smiled and nodded in agreement.
We found our way to a little table and in a moment we were served two plates of rice and two bowls with the contents of the pots she had recommended. We identified our respective dish and started eating.
As we were wrapping up our meal some local workers came in to eat and it was by watching them that we discovered what we should have done. They also were given large bowls of different items, but they ate 'family style'. Each scooped what they wanted out of the different bowls. Oh well, whatever it was we enjoyed it.
Our next stop for the day was the spa. We planned to take Thai Massage classes once in Chiang Mai, but neither of us had really ever had a real Thai massage. We thought it would be good to know what we were getting into. Here in Thailand there are more massage parlors than gas stations and churches combined back home. Literally every block has at least one and sometimes two or three. A full body massage here averages about $10-$12 an hour, and a foot massage is even less. We opted for just a foot massage.
The setting was serene and calming with soft music, and the two lady therapists seemed friendly and professional. One thing to note for those not familiar with Thai Massage Therapists, they are first cousins to Chiropractors. They do great work and can often do miracles, but they get there through pain and torture. The youngest of the two therapists would pull, push and crack something in my foot and then laugh as I would writhe in pain. The more I groaned the harder she pushed and the deeper she laughed. She twisted, yanked and pried and with every little whimper she became more tickled. As my feet turned numb and were no longer any fun to work on, she decided to abandon them and work her way up. Next thing I knew she was twisting my arms over my head and cracking my back. This was the oddest foot massage ever. When the hour was up we paid the bill and went back to the hotel. We still had time left before our ride to the airport so I curled up on a bench to try and recover.
We started the afternoon being a little adventurous and decided to try our luck at true local cuisine. We found a little place that had a long table paralleling the sidewalk with several large pots of unidentifiable items cooking inside them. The lady tending the table knew no English, but pointed at the pots as if we were supposed to figure out the contents by the number of wags her finger made over each pot. After giving us a good looking over, she pointed at two different pots and then pointed at each of us as if to say "You take this one and you take this one". We just smiled and nodded in agreement.
We found our way to a little table and in a moment we were served two plates of rice and two bowls with the contents of the pots she had recommended. We identified our respective dish and started eating.
As we were wrapping up our meal some local workers came in to eat and it was by watching them that we discovered what we should have done. They also were given large bowls of different items, but they ate 'family style'. Each scooped what they wanted out of the different bowls. Oh well, whatever it was we enjoyed it.
Our next stop for the day was the spa. We planned to take Thai Massage classes once in Chiang Mai, but neither of us had really ever had a real Thai massage. We thought it would be good to know what we were getting into. Here in Thailand there are more massage parlors than gas stations and churches combined back home. Literally every block has at least one and sometimes two or three. A full body massage here averages about $10-$12 an hour, and a foot massage is even less. We opted for just a foot massage.
The setting was serene and calming with soft music, and the two lady therapists seemed friendly and professional. One thing to note for those not familiar with Thai Massage Therapists, they are first cousins to Chiropractors. They do great work and can often do miracles, but they get there through pain and torture. The youngest of the two therapists would pull, push and crack something in my foot and then laugh as I would writhe in pain. The more I groaned the harder she pushed and the deeper she laughed. She twisted, yanked and pried and with every little whimper she became more tickled. As my feet turned numb and were no longer any fun to work on, she decided to abandon them and work her way up. Next thing I knew she was twisting my arms over my head and cracking my back. This was the oddest foot massage ever. When the hour was up we paid the bill and went back to the hotel. We still had time left before our ride to the airport so I curled up on a bench to try and recover.
Tuesday, January 24, 2012
Simon Cabaret
"Since opening in October 18, 1991, Phuket Simon Cabaret has established itself as a market leader of professional entertainment venue. For sheer entertainment, Our set designs are outstanding, costume extravagant and the performers glamorous! In the exclusive , luxurious and intimate theatre with hi-tech sound and lighting equipment." - Simon Cabaret Website
We heard about Simon Cabaret many times in route to and around Phuket. It was apparently THE show in town to see. It had a pretty heavy reputation to uphold and it held to every bit of it and more. The show was stunning, absolutely spectacular.
So why a Cabaret? That was our question too. The only thing we knew of a cabaret was the musical by the same name which mostly included scantily clad women singing risqué numbers in dark smokey rooms. But the Simon Cabaret was certainly not that, in fact it is a family oriented Las Vegas style show. While certain numbers may show a little extra skin, most numbers are full of dazzling costumes, fantastic sets and breathtaking pageantry, along with great music and comedy.
We were lucky enough to get third row seats and there wasn't an empty chair in the place. There are two and sometimes three nightly shows. Since they opened in 1991, there have only been two nights without a show, the day the queen died and the day the tsunami hit in 2004.
Why blog about the Simon Cabaret? I guess it was just for our sake since we couldn't stop talking about it after it was over. We were trying to summarize the show in a word or two and we gave up. It can't be done. It's like viewing an amazing outdoor nature scene of breathtaking beauty and then trying to capture the same feeling in word or picture.
A slide show of some of the numbers can be seen on their website at:
http://www.phuket-simoncabaret.com/show_list.php.
We heard about Simon Cabaret many times in route to and around Phuket. It was apparently THE show in town to see. It had a pretty heavy reputation to uphold and it held to every bit of it and more. The show was stunning, absolutely spectacular.
So why a Cabaret? That was our question too. The only thing we knew of a cabaret was the musical by the same name which mostly included scantily clad women singing risqué numbers in dark smokey rooms. But the Simon Cabaret was certainly not that, in fact it is a family oriented Las Vegas style show. While certain numbers may show a little extra skin, most numbers are full of dazzling costumes, fantastic sets and breathtaking pageantry, along with great music and comedy.
We were lucky enough to get third row seats and there wasn't an empty chair in the place. There are two and sometimes three nightly shows. Since they opened in 1991, there have only been two nights without a show, the day the queen died and the day the tsunami hit in 2004.
Why blog about the Simon Cabaret? I guess it was just for our sake since we couldn't stop talking about it after it was over. We were trying to summarize the show in a word or two and we gave up. It can't be done. It's like viewing an amazing outdoor nature scene of breathtaking beauty and then trying to capture the same feeling in word or picture.
A slide show of some of the numbers can be seen on their website at:
http://www.phuket-simoncabaret.com/show_list.php.
Gender Identity
Many languages include different forms for words based on the gender of the object referred to or who is speaking to whom. Most familiar to us is Spanish where even inanimate objects, such as a door or a book, are assigned a gender and words referring to it are translated as either male or female. English is probably in the minority of languages that don't change forms of words depending on gender. Thai also has different forms of words based on gender but in Thai the form is changed based on the speaker, not who is being spoken to. For example, 'thank you' in Thai ends with 'krup' if a male is speaking and ends with 'ka' if a female is speaking, regardless of who is being spoken to.
The point of the little language lesson is because here in Thailand they have a third gender of sorts, the 'ladyboy'. The 'ladyboy' is a transgender, or a person that started out as a male but has become a female with the assistance of surgery and/or hormones. In the USA, transgender people are still rather rare although we know they exist. In Thailand they are well known and while still somewhat of an entertainment to many, they are well accepted and integrated into society. In fact, the captain from the boat trip we took in Phuket told us that they even have their own gender ending for words. For example, when using the Thai word for 'thank you' a transgender would not use the male ending 'krup' or the female ending 'ka' but they end the word saying 'ha'. The boat captain said the reason is not to create a third gender but because they often look so convincing as as woman, it lets people know otherwise.
The point of the little language lesson is because here in Thailand they have a third gender of sorts, the 'ladyboy'. The 'ladyboy' is a transgender, or a person that started out as a male but has become a female with the assistance of surgery and/or hormones. In the USA, transgender people are still rather rare although we know they exist. In Thailand they are well known and while still somewhat of an entertainment to many, they are well accepted and integrated into society. In fact, the captain from the boat trip we took in Phuket told us that they even have their own gender ending for words. For example, when using the Thai word for 'thank you' a transgender would not use the male ending 'krup' or the female ending 'ka' but they end the word saying 'ha'. The boat captain said the reason is not to create a third gender but because they often look so convincing as as woman, it lets people know otherwise.
Monday, January 23, 2012
King Ping
Ever play Slug Bug when you were a kid? If you aren't familiar, it's a driving game - the first one to spot a Volkswagen Beetle says 'Slug Bug' and punches the other players on the arm.
In Thailand, there is a great national appreciation for their king. There are shrines and images of him everywhere, and on many are the words in English "Long Live the King". We created our own version of Slug Bug and call it King Ping. Every time we see an image of the king, we 'ping' each other on the arm, hence 'King Ping'! We started this little game while on a short road trip but when we got back inside Bangkok was had to stop. There were pictures of the king everywhere: on bridges, on buildings, in the mediums, on poles and at intersections. Had we not stopped our arms would have been bleeding by sundown.
Another interesting note about their patriotism - every day at 8:00am and 6:00pm their national anthem (the Phleng Chat Thai) is played on all TV and radio stations, all public places such as bus stations, sky train stations, schools and public markets. The Thai people all stop what they are doing and face the flag if near one, and all business stops until the song is through playing. Its not like in the USA when the National Anthem plays. While many people face the flag with hand over heart, many do not and to others its still business as usual. But in Thailand its almost like someone hits a giant pause button and literally everyone and everything stops. Immediately after the song finishes, it's back to business as usual. It is quite a moving experience to behold.
In Thailand, there is a great national appreciation for their king. There are shrines and images of him everywhere, and on many are the words in English "Long Live the King". We created our own version of Slug Bug and call it King Ping. Every time we see an image of the king, we 'ping' each other on the arm, hence 'King Ping'! We started this little game while on a short road trip but when we got back inside Bangkok was had to stop. There were pictures of the king everywhere: on bridges, on buildings, in the mediums, on poles and at intersections. Had we not stopped our arms would have been bleeding by sundown.
Another interesting note about their patriotism - every day at 8:00am and 6:00pm their national anthem (the Phleng Chat Thai) is played on all TV and radio stations, all public places such as bus stations, sky train stations, schools and public markets. The Thai people all stop what they are doing and face the flag if near one, and all business stops until the song is through playing. Its not like in the USA when the National Anthem plays. While many people face the flag with hand over heart, many do not and to others its still business as usual. But in Thailand its almost like someone hits a giant pause button and literally everyone and everything stops. Immediately after the song finishes, it's back to business as usual. It is quite a moving experience to behold.
Saturday, January 21, 2012
Pink Phuket
We woke early and were the first to the breakfast area. Keeping with our other experiences so far, the breakfast did not disappoint. The minivan ride to the beach was a true cultural experience in itself. The first group was an older trio from Italy. The next group consisted of four young Israeli guys. The third group was a couple of scroungy looking Americans from Arkansas. The fourth group was a French couple and the last group to board was a Japanese couple with their young son. The multicultural trip lasted about an hour and resembled a tour bus in New York City.
We unloaded and merged with other groups, each with even more countries represented, at the tour office for Amazing Canoe Trips. The name instilled immediate concern. The tour guide suggested that we use the restroom before departing so we followed the arrows on the signs for "Amazing Toilets" and the name didn't disappoint either. We were amazed that we would be directed to the 'Amazing Toilets' only to find that all four stalls had "Out of Order" signs.
Thankfully we did not spend the 5 hr tour in canoes. The passengers were divided onto several large two level sightseeing boats. Our female captain was friendly and informative but spoke English with such a thick Thai accent it was difficult to understand her. Still, her voice sounded familiar - I was certain I had talked to her before on an AT&T technical support call.
Our first stop was James Bond Island. This spot was made famous when James Bond (Roger Moore) faced off with his enemy 'The man with the golden gun' (Christopher Lee). This tiny Island is marked with a highly recognizable landmark, a round stone jutting out of the water not far from the shoreline. It stands approximately 66 ft tall with a diameter of 13 feet at water level and 26 feet at the top. The island is perhaps more recognizable now by the abundance of booths and vendors selling James Bond Island and other local merchandise. Without deviation to the rule: A captive audience = sales.
The second stop on the trip we did use canoes. Passengers were divided into groups of two or three and assigned a 'canoe captain'. Later we found out that 'canoe captain' is a native Thai term which translates to 'Local among foreigners that collects tips'. The 'canoe captain' paddled us around a cove and through a short tunnel and then back around to the main boat.
Our next stop was yet another canoe ride with our same 'canoe captain' from the prior island. This time the destination was a bit more exciting. We were transported to the shoreline and let out at the mouth of a small cave which wasn't visible from the main boat. We were led though a winding passageway by our guide with flashlight in hand. He made sure to point out several 'features' of the cave, such as bats waiting to attach themselves to the young Chinese women in the group, or so these ladies thought based on their reactions. Water in the cave was knee hight at one point and at times the ceiling was too low to walk upright. The passage gave way to a hidden courtyard in the mountain, only accessible though the obscure path in which we came. The place looked like a scene from 'Land of the Lost' with tropical trees and odd protruding rock formations and made a memorable impression. Sunlight filtered down between gnarled vines and leaves from tree tops high above, and eerie sounds of birds echoed between the narrow walls. At high tide the entire area would be submerged, but for now it was an adventure. The only thing this secluded area was missing was a few vendors.
Back on the boat we had a very nice lunch and an afternoon swim in the Indian Ocean. After the swim, onboard dancing commenced among some of the passengers, and then we were given a short show by one of the local 'ladyboys' (a transgender person for which Thailand is well known). After returning to the dock, we headed back to our hotel to end an enjoyable day at sea. And if there is any curiosity as to why this entry is titled "Pink Phuket", it's because that's the way we looked at the end of the day.
We unloaded and merged with other groups, each with even more countries represented, at the tour office for Amazing Canoe Trips. The name instilled immediate concern. The tour guide suggested that we use the restroom before departing so we followed the arrows on the signs for "Amazing Toilets" and the name didn't disappoint either. We were amazed that we would be directed to the 'Amazing Toilets' only to find that all four stalls had "Out of Order" signs.
Thankfully we did not spend the 5 hr tour in canoes. The passengers were divided onto several large two level sightseeing boats. Our female captain was friendly and informative but spoke English with such a thick Thai accent it was difficult to understand her. Still, her voice sounded familiar - I was certain I had talked to her before on an AT&T technical support call.
Our first stop was James Bond Island. This spot was made famous when James Bond (Roger Moore) faced off with his enemy 'The man with the golden gun' (Christopher Lee). This tiny Island is marked with a highly recognizable landmark, a round stone jutting out of the water not far from the shoreline. It stands approximately 66 ft tall with a diameter of 13 feet at water level and 26 feet at the top. The island is perhaps more recognizable now by the abundance of booths and vendors selling James Bond Island and other local merchandise. Without deviation to the rule: A captive audience = sales.
The second stop on the trip we did use canoes. Passengers were divided into groups of two or three and assigned a 'canoe captain'. Later we found out that 'canoe captain' is a native Thai term which translates to 'Local among foreigners that collects tips'. The 'canoe captain' paddled us around a cove and through a short tunnel and then back around to the main boat.
Our next stop was yet another canoe ride with our same 'canoe captain' from the prior island. This time the destination was a bit more exciting. We were transported to the shoreline and let out at the mouth of a small cave which wasn't visible from the main boat. We were led though a winding passageway by our guide with flashlight in hand. He made sure to point out several 'features' of the cave, such as bats waiting to attach themselves to the young Chinese women in the group, or so these ladies thought based on their reactions. Water in the cave was knee hight at one point and at times the ceiling was too low to walk upright. The passage gave way to a hidden courtyard in the mountain, only accessible though the obscure path in which we came. The place looked like a scene from 'Land of the Lost' with tropical trees and odd protruding rock formations and made a memorable impression. Sunlight filtered down between gnarled vines and leaves from tree tops high above, and eerie sounds of birds echoed between the narrow walls. At high tide the entire area would be submerged, but for now it was an adventure. The only thing this secluded area was missing was a few vendors.
Back on the boat we had a very nice lunch and an afternoon swim in the Indian Ocean. After the swim, onboard dancing commenced among some of the passengers, and then we were given a short show by one of the local 'ladyboys' (a transgender person for which Thailand is well known). After returning to the dock, we headed back to our hotel to end an enjoyable day at sea. And if there is any curiosity as to why this entry is titled "Pink Phuket", it's because that's the way we looked at the end of the day.
Friday, January 20, 2012
Phuket by Bus
Several busses were lined up beside the train station. One of the train conductors pointed us in the direction of the last bus where we joined in the long line of tourists waiting to board. While the driver took his time loading bags belonging to waiting passengers we decided to satisfy our uncertainty by verifying our destination with a different driver. Turns out we were in the wrong line and the bus we were supposed to take had just pulled away. The man hollered down the road for someone to stop the bus and via relay it reached someone close enough to flag the bus to a stop. We ran and jumped on, wiping sweat from our brows, and away we went.
The drive to Phuket was another four hours. The bus was completely packed and for a short time we weren't seated together. I claimed the window seat next to a young woman from Europe. This was not the kind of woman you find modeling in classy Victoria Secret advertisements, this was one of the long lost European-Amazon women from the bush country, the kind that refrains from bathing and using those 'awful chemicals' such as deodorants and perfumes that they claim are bad for the body. Well they aren't bad for MY body, in fact my body was craving a healthy dose of chemicals right then, something more along the lines of Pine-Sol or perhaps a few refreshing cups of ammonia. I squeezed ever closer to the window, searching in vain for even the slightest crack in the glass that might grant me a wisp of fresh air and a short reprieve. I started digging furiously in my backpack for a more pleasant scent to mask the pervasive fumes. Old squished bananas, dirty crusty socks and even four day old underpants didn't do the trick. The bus stopped, a couple people exited, and I politely slipped out of my seat to claim one of the newly vacated ones. The young girl remarked as I slipped past, "Leaving so soon?" I was secretly wishing I had left my old underwear on the seat beside her.
The scenery started out like the other areas we've seen before, and slowly the mountains started poking their way out of the landscape. On the final hour of the bus ride, towering rock formations were lingering overhead. Phuket is Thailand's largest island and a favorite vacation destination. Its famed cliffs and unique rock formations gained international attention in the 1974 Bond film "The Man with the Golden Gun". These famed formations remain a favorite spot on Asian travel calendars and promotional materials.
We had one final transition from bus to taxi before arriving at our hotel for the next two nights: the Seeka Boutique Resort on Patong beach. The facilities were beautiful and included a nice restaurant and pool. Our room was exceptional and the decor added to the beach island theme. We walked through town, had a nice but simple Thai dinner, and booked our following days' tour of the world renowned islands.
The drive to Phuket was another four hours. The bus was completely packed and for a short time we weren't seated together. I claimed the window seat next to a young woman from Europe. This was not the kind of woman you find modeling in classy Victoria Secret advertisements, this was one of the long lost European-Amazon women from the bush country, the kind that refrains from bathing and using those 'awful chemicals' such as deodorants and perfumes that they claim are bad for the body. Well they aren't bad for MY body, in fact my body was craving a healthy dose of chemicals right then, something more along the lines of Pine-Sol or perhaps a few refreshing cups of ammonia. I squeezed ever closer to the window, searching in vain for even the slightest crack in the glass that might grant me a wisp of fresh air and a short reprieve. I started digging furiously in my backpack for a more pleasant scent to mask the pervasive fumes. Old squished bananas, dirty crusty socks and even four day old underpants didn't do the trick. The bus stopped, a couple people exited, and I politely slipped out of my seat to claim one of the newly vacated ones. The young girl remarked as I slipped past, "Leaving so soon?" I was secretly wishing I had left my old underwear on the seat beside her.
The scenery started out like the other areas we've seen before, and slowly the mountains started poking their way out of the landscape. On the final hour of the bus ride, towering rock formations were lingering overhead. Phuket is Thailand's largest island and a favorite vacation destination. Its famed cliffs and unique rock formations gained international attention in the 1974 Bond film "The Man with the Golden Gun". These famed formations remain a favorite spot on Asian travel calendars and promotional materials.
We had one final transition from bus to taxi before arriving at our hotel for the next two nights: the Seeka Boutique Resort on Patong beach. The facilities were beautiful and included a nice restaurant and pool. Our room was exceptional and the decor added to the beach island theme. We walked through town, had a nice but simple Thai dinner, and booked our following days' tour of the world renowned islands.
Traveling by Train
When we boarded our train we were expecting a sleeper car but there were no beds visible. We staked our claim on a couple seats and hoped we were in the right place. Soon every seat was taken by other travelers from all over the World; The US, Israel, France, the UK, Germany... the list goes on. The train departed exactly at the time scheduled and we slowly made our way through Bangkok. Looking out the windows we could peer into the homes of some of the poorest locals we've seen yet; those who can only afford to live next to busy train tracks. These were truly shacks, obviously pieced together by what could be salvaged and standing due to being precariously affixed to the adjoining shanties. Whole families could be seen together inside their small room sharing an evening meal, talking or working on crafts to be peddled on the street the following day.
One of our biggest concerns about such a long trip was the bathroom facilities. It's not unlike a single toilet among throngs of tourists to become stopped up and unusable thus making the trip uncomfortable. We were in luck as these toilets used fail safe plumbing- a large hole. Unlike the previous squatty-potties which also employed a hole, this potty provided in use entertainment watching the tracks pass by underneath. The hole was large enought not to miss, and we couldn't help but wonder what animals may have made their way onto the train from here and even worse how many small children may have slipped through during use.
As is the custom with any captive audience, vendors made their way back and forth through the aisles selling food and drink. While we declined immediate snacks, we did prepay for a breakfast.
Soon the lights of the city faded and glassy eyes and yawns started appearing on weary travelers. An attendant also appeared and started the rapid transformation of the seating area into two full sized twin beds which included clean sheets and pillow. We nestled into our respective compartments and awoke the next day as dawn began carving the landscape from the darkness.
One of our biggest concerns about such a long trip was the bathroom facilities. It's not unlike a single toilet among throngs of tourists to become stopped up and unusable thus making the trip uncomfortable. We were in luck as these toilets used fail safe plumbing- a large hole. Unlike the previous squatty-potties which also employed a hole, this potty provided in use entertainment watching the tracks pass by underneath. The hole was large enought not to miss, and we couldn't help but wonder what animals may have made their way onto the train from here and even worse how many small children may have slipped through during use.
As is the custom with any captive audience, vendors made their way back and forth through the aisles selling food and drink. While we declined immediate snacks, we did prepay for a breakfast.
Soon the lights of the city faded and glassy eyes and yawns started appearing on weary travelers. An attendant also appeared and started the rapid transformation of the seating area into two full sized twin beds which included clean sheets and pillow. We nestled into our respective compartments and awoke the next day as dawn began carving the landscape from the darkness.
Passport problems
We overnighted at the Swan Hotel near the river in Bangkok. The room was standard but offered a perfect view of the Sirocco tower, a skyscraper that received worldwide attention in the movie 'Hangover II'. The bathroom in our latest room only needed one visit for all your hygiene needs. It was basically a large shower with toilet and sink in it. It gave new meaning to shaving in the shower. Two things we haven't quite figured out: First, how to keep the toilet paper dry when showering (maybe that's not a problem if we stick to the butt washer) and secondly, once showered and dressed, how do we re-enter the bathroom without getting our feet wet. If barefoot then we track water through the room, if in socks then they need to be changed and if wearing shoes it tracks dirt from the soles all over the room.
Breakfast here was complimentary with the room and was the best yet with eggs prepared to your choice, fresh fruit, juices, toast and several dishes like noodles, chicken pasta and salads.
Tonight we catch the sleeper train to Phuket in the south of Thailand. Until then we have to try and resolve a problem with our visas. When we flew into the country we were given a 30 day maximum stay and we planned to fly out on the day our visas were to expire. What we didn't realize is that when a tourist enters the country by air they get a 30 day stay but when they enter by land, as we did yesterday from Cambodia, they are only given a 15 day stay. Our flight is still 8 days after that.
We checked out of the hotel and caught a cab to the government complex. The stop where the cab dropped us off was across the street from the government complex so we needed to cross the highway on a walking bridge. Each entrance to the bridge had two armed soldiers. When they saw us they held us back for a moment and then told us to run. They spoke Thai of course so we really didn't know what they said, but they were waving and flailing their arms letting us know to hurry. When we reached the top of the stairs I only thought it appropriate to stop and take a picture, but much to my dismay it set off the guards at all four places, yelling and screaming and jumping and waving? They were moving their arms furiously and yelling, the ones behind us were waving GO GO GO and the ones in front of us were signaling COME COME COME. They way they were carrying on we were apprehensive about coming out the other side expecting a chewing out, but the soldiers looked happy and relieved when we exited the bridge and waved us on. Last week there was a travel alert issued by the US dept of defense concerning tourists in Bangkok due to some kind of terrorist threat. Travelers were encouraged to avoid public areas and apparently us meandering on a walkway way up high in the open was making us a target. We decided to find another way back to the hotel.
Safe after crossing the highway we found out we were not at the correct building and two motorbike drivers offered to take us to the correct place. There are four primary forms of transportation here; public (sky train, subway and bus), automobile, tuktuk and motorbike and perhaps there are more of the latter than anything else. They are small and cheap and fast and maneuver easily in and out of the harrowing traffic. Imagine a wild and crazy tuktuk running on granny's moonshine only on 2 wheels instead of 3. We held on for dear life zooming in and around cars like characters in a 3D movie. Parked car in road? No problem, WHOOSH! Cars too slow? No problem again, WHOOSH! No room between cars? No problem, sidewalk free, WHOOSH! All of a sudden we found ourselves praying for a TukTuk. Thankfully we didn't have far to go which was fortunate, much longer and we both our seats would have been wet.
The government building was massive and looked like it could easily house a football field in the interior courtyard. It was 8 stories up and at least one visible court below full of restaurants and stores. We went through a lengthy and frustrating series of different offices and lines before finally being told that since we will be staying in Chaing Mai for the next two weeks we would need to file the papers at the Chaing Mai office.
We caught a cab directly to the train station, safely avoiding the walking bridge, where we stowed our bags and went to see the river. We sat at a restaurant, had a drink and watched the boats going back and forth up and down the waterway. After returning to the train station we ate a quick meal at KFC and boarded our train to the South.
Breakfast here was complimentary with the room and was the best yet with eggs prepared to your choice, fresh fruit, juices, toast and several dishes like noodles, chicken pasta and salads.
Tonight we catch the sleeper train to Phuket in the south of Thailand. Until then we have to try and resolve a problem with our visas. When we flew into the country we were given a 30 day maximum stay and we planned to fly out on the day our visas were to expire. What we didn't realize is that when a tourist enters the country by air they get a 30 day stay but when they enter by land, as we did yesterday from Cambodia, they are only given a 15 day stay. Our flight is still 8 days after that.
We checked out of the hotel and caught a cab to the government complex. The stop where the cab dropped us off was across the street from the government complex so we needed to cross the highway on a walking bridge. Each entrance to the bridge had two armed soldiers. When they saw us they held us back for a moment and then told us to run. They spoke Thai of course so we really didn't know what they said, but they were waving and flailing their arms letting us know to hurry. When we reached the top of the stairs I only thought it appropriate to stop and take a picture, but much to my dismay it set off the guards at all four places, yelling and screaming and jumping and waving? They were moving their arms furiously and yelling, the ones behind us were waving GO GO GO and the ones in front of us were signaling COME COME COME. They way they were carrying on we were apprehensive about coming out the other side expecting a chewing out, but the soldiers looked happy and relieved when we exited the bridge and waved us on. Last week there was a travel alert issued by the US dept of defense concerning tourists in Bangkok due to some kind of terrorist threat. Travelers were encouraged to avoid public areas and apparently us meandering on a walkway way up high in the open was making us a target. We decided to find another way back to the hotel.
Safe after crossing the highway we found out we were not at the correct building and two motorbike drivers offered to take us to the correct place. There are four primary forms of transportation here; public (sky train, subway and bus), automobile, tuktuk and motorbike and perhaps there are more of the latter than anything else. They are small and cheap and fast and maneuver easily in and out of the harrowing traffic. Imagine a wild and crazy tuktuk running on granny's moonshine only on 2 wheels instead of 3. We held on for dear life zooming in and around cars like characters in a 3D movie. Parked car in road? No problem, WHOOSH! Cars too slow? No problem again, WHOOSH! No room between cars? No problem, sidewalk free, WHOOSH! All of a sudden we found ourselves praying for a TukTuk. Thankfully we didn't have far to go which was fortunate, much longer and we both our seats would have been wet.
The government building was massive and looked like it could easily house a football field in the interior courtyard. It was 8 stories up and at least one visible court below full of restaurants and stores. We went through a lengthy and frustrating series of different offices and lines before finally being told that since we will be staying in Chaing Mai for the next two weeks we would need to file the papers at the Chaing Mai office.
We caught a cab directly to the train station, safely avoiding the walking bridge, where we stowed our bags and went to see the river. We sat at a restaurant, had a drink and watched the boats going back and forth up and down the waterway. After returning to the train station we ate a quick meal at KFC and boarded our train to the South.
Thursday, January 19, 2012
Back to Bangkok
Awaking early, we cleaned, blogged and packed for our return to Bangkok. We were ahead of schedule and had a full 30 min wait before our ride was scheduled to pick us up, so we decided to indulge on our free American Breakfast. Not so. Immediately after finding a place to sit between motorbikes, our driver showed up. We left our final remaining Riel to tip the hotel staff and were on our way ... or so we thought. We were dropped off at a pickup spot packed with travelers heading to Thailand. When the place could hold no more, we were corralled to a large bus and then just before getting on we were directed into a waiting cab. We picked up one other passenger at an upscale looking hotel (no motorbikes in dining room) and at last we were back on the road.
Two hours later we arrived at the border. The process back to Thailand was much easier and faster than when we crossed into Cambodia, and we found ourselves an hour ahead of schedule. We passed the time at a small restaurant between the two borders watching people pull their carts back and forth in front of the casinos. Sitting outside, we ordered a light meal and had a delightful visit with the young lady that rode with us in the cab from Siem Reap. Julie was returning to Bangkok where she currently lives with her family. Being an ex-flight attendant, she spoke Thai, Hindi and nearly perfect English with only a slight Indian accent which grew noticeably thicker as she spoke to her Indian friends and family over the phone. Julie was a charming young lady and talk flowed easily on a variety of topics. Once in Bangkok she directed us to the proper train, instructed us where to get off and even paid our fare. Our meeting was truly one of those serendipitous connections to remind us that even people halfway across the world can share the common bond of humanity and goodwill.
We found our hotel with little effort, had chicken teriyaki and a corn pie at McDonalds and had an early night's sleep after a long day of travel.
Two hours later we arrived at the border. The process back to Thailand was much easier and faster than when we crossed into Cambodia, and we found ourselves an hour ahead of schedule. We passed the time at a small restaurant between the two borders watching people pull their carts back and forth in front of the casinos. Sitting outside, we ordered a light meal and had a delightful visit with the young lady that rode with us in the cab from Siem Reap. Julie was returning to Bangkok where she currently lives with her family. Being an ex-flight attendant, she spoke Thai, Hindi and nearly perfect English with only a slight Indian accent which grew noticeably thicker as she spoke to her Indian friends and family over the phone. Julie was a charming young lady and talk flowed easily on a variety of topics. Once in Bangkok she directed us to the proper train, instructed us where to get off and even paid our fare. Our meeting was truly one of those serendipitous connections to remind us that even people halfway across the world can share the common bond of humanity and goodwill.
We found our hotel with little effort, had chicken teriyaki and a corn pie at McDonalds and had an early night's sleep after a long day of travel.
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